Charleston

Row of Houses in Charleston, SC

We arrived in Charleston, SC last Wednesday.  After two days in the city we weren't sure we would leave again.  What an amazing place.

You see, on our original plan for this trip, we were supposed to leave Southern Virginia and make a b-line for the Florida Keys.  Sounds great, right?  Well, upon further review we decided it would be best not to burn that much gas and bypass everything in between Virginia and Southern Florida.  For whatever reason, we decided to stop in Charleston.  We didn't research the decision much and had just a fuzzy idea of what awaited us.

If ever we were looking for a place to settle down to again, Charleston has all we are looking for.  It has architecture and history.  Enough restaurants that you could probably spend years without going to the same one twice.  Great beach towns surround it.  Did I mention the 3000 slip marina!?  Oh yeah, it never snows there and we were visiting in the midst of a "cold-spell" where daily temperatures only got into the mid-60s in November.  Meanwhile, back in NY where we left from, they got a freak snow storm.

Immediately upon driving into the city we got a great vibe.  There was a pulse to the city.  People out on the streets, horse drawn carriages traipsing down cobblestone streets, gas lights, houses that are hundreds of years old, dark alleys (of the not-going-to-get-stabbed-if-you-walk-down-them variety), Spanish moss, and palm trees.

We've been walking a lot on this trip, and this stop was no exception.  We had arrived in time for the city's first Friday; which is where local galleries open up on the first Friday of the month to showcase new works.  It is an event we used to attend in Albany, but Charleston's was significantly larger.  An added perk is that most galleries serve free finger foods, and some serve drinks.  At the last gallery we made it to there was a man playing Flamenco guitar in the rear courtyard.  Art, food, drinks, and music.  For free.  Sign me up.

We also treated ourselves to a Walking Ghost Tour.  It was a fun experience and we heard some pretty interesting and chilling tales.  No ghosts though.  But it did show us a different side of our new favorite city.

Before arriving in Charleston, something had been missing from this trip.  We couldn't quite put a finger on it, but everywhere we had gone we didn't quite "belong".  Even in Annapolis, which we had had high hopes for, we didn't get the feeling that it was for us.  All that changed in Charleston, we could have happily never left.  In fact, we met several locals who had had similar experiences.  They were displaced for some reason or other, arrived in Charleston and just stayed.

We do have other places we want to explore though, and after brief stops in Savannah and Brunswick, GA, we've since arrived in Florida where we will be for the next few weeks at the least.  If we don't like it here, South Carolina is only a few hours to the North.

Cannons for Shelling Ft. Sumter

Palmetto

Creekside Reggae

Beach Bench

Looking out to the Harbour

What We Like (and Don't)

Parked in Charleston, SC

Well we’ve been living pretty much full time in the 160 sq. ft. of space allotted in our VW Rialta for about three weeks now.  Here’s a brief list of things we like and don’t like about it:

Like

Home is where we park

Life is simplified

Not having clutter

Freedom (though it’s quite scary sometimes)

Exploration, we’ve seen some truly stunning scenery

As winter gets closer, we’ve only gotten warmer

Cooking simple meals with a two burner stove

We don’t have a lot of clothes, hence it is simple to get dressed

We use our microwave as an extra cabinet rather than a microwave

It’s cozy

Friendly locals (more the further south we’ve gotten)

We can fit in most parking places in the city (only 22’ long)

We have a TV, but we don’t watch it (we watch the occasional movie or show on the laptop)

Dislike

Tolls

Staying at WalMart too much

The suburbs that we have to drive through to get to the Wal-Marts

Not having a sense of community – we miss our friends, and our local shops

Doing dishes in a mini-sink

Banging a knee or a head into something at least once a day

Having to move various items (ie. Fishing rods) to get to storage (ie. the kitchen cabinet)

One of us can sit while eating, the other has to stand (we’re sleeping on the dinette)

Things We Miss

The aforementioned friends and local shops

Unlimited hot showers

Laundry facilities

Dishwasher

Going out to eat more often – we’re on a very limited budget to be doing this

Being able to be “greener” (we had a worm compost at our house)

Grocery shopping for more than two days at a time

A couch

A kitchen table

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All in all, this has been a great experience thus far.  We have our days where we look at each other and say “what the f*ck are we doing!?”, but the good experiences outweigh the bad.  In looking over our lists of likes and dislikes, it seems the things we dislike or miss are many of the conveniences that we take for granted when living in a house or an apartment: furniture, unlimited water on demand, etc.

Will we stay living in an RV forever?  No.  Our ultimate dream is still to live on a sailboat.  We are living in less space than the size sailboat we will eventually live on, so this has/continues to be a good primer for that.  In the meantime we will continue our travels on land, but keep the water in our hearts.

DelMarVa

Most of last week was spent on the road, traipsing down the DelMarVa Peninsula (“gunkholing” is the term sailors use) from Annapolis, MD in the North till finally crossing the 20 mile Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel and entering Virginia Beach last Thursday.

We had really high expectations heading into Annapolis, and while it definitely has some cool spots and nice architecture, our heart still lies in that other sailing town up in RI: Newport.  I think Newport has a more “small town” feel about it that we didn’t get out of Annapolis.  Outside of downtown, the big box chains take over pretty quickly and it loses all of the colonial charm of the city center.  One bright spot was the neighborhood of Eastport that occupies the peninsula just south of Annapolis.  We spent most of one day just walking around Eastport checking out the cool beach shack type homes, the tiny Oyster museum with public docks where we learned about crabbing, watching boats go out to the bay, and exploring the little beaches that existed as every street ended at the water.

The Chesapeake is beautiful country.  There are literally thousands of small rivers, creeks, and estuaries that flow into the bay, and as such you are never far from water.  We had the privilege of camping right on the water last Monday on Taylor’s Island, MD.  The campground was back in the woods without any signage and I was pretty sure men in coveralls playing banjos were going to greet us at the gate, but it turned out to be a really great evening despite it being our first time dumping the land yacht’s waste tanks.

We also had opportunity to visit the Atlantic side of the DelMarVa Peninsula when we visited Chincoteague Island, VA.  There is a protected barrier island there that is a national wildlife sanctuary.  As such, we were unable to drive onto it (we are travelling with our dog), so we parked at nearby hotel that was nice enough to let us use their lot and walked in.  Three hours of non-stop hiking and about ten miles later we returned after having seen more birds that I can ever remember seeing at any one time.  We also had an opportunity to view the wild ponies of Chincoteague; if you’ve ever looked at horses grazing in a field you can imagine what that was like.  Overall the area was very pristine and beautiful.  We walked down the beach on the Atlantic side of the barrier island and didn’t see another soul for over a mile.

The Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel is quite the feat of engineering prowess.  I wouldn’t in my wildest imagination try to construct something over, and under open water for twenty miles!  I’d probably opt to run a ferry boat, but then again I’m predisposed to messing about in boats.  Anyway, it’s quite impressive and was worth the $12 entry fee, I mean toll, to see it.

Last Thursday was the four year anniversary of our marriage.  It was on our Honeymoon just after, in Jamaica, that we first tried sailing and first experienced that notion of “Island Time”, a state we have been trying to get back to ever since.  That week, more than any other time in my brief stay on this planet, affected my outlook on life and what I want to get out of it more than any other.  We celebrated our anniversary by grilling some shrimp and tuna, drinking a couple of Red Stripes, and staying at a campground on the beach in Virginia.  Towards the end of our meal it started to rain, and then it really started to rain; huge droplets coming down in sheets, soaked the second you walk outside kind of rain.  So we danced in it. Best anniversary ever.

We are now back on the road after a brief stay at my parent’s home near Smith Mt. Lake, VA.  While we had a great run of weather last week on the Peninsula and were able to wear shorts and flip flops for most of it, the forecast has turned decidedly chilly and we’ll be making a push to get a bit further south before stopping to fully explore one area like we did the DelMarVa again.

Some pictures:

Annapolis Street

Crabbing in Cambridge, MD

At Quiet Waters Park outside Annapolis

Boardwalk on Chincoteague Island, VA

Deserted Beach on Chincoteage's National Seashore

Sunset over the Severn River

Spanish Moss in Virginia Beach

Colonial Williamsburg, VA

Sunset